Almost invisible below the U of the main road 100m northeast of Sakya Gompa, Kaza’s longest-running hotel has completely renewed the bathrooms in this mud-built structure while maintaining the old log ceilings. Sleeping areas have been spruced up with decorative details and the L-shaped shared balcony-terrace is a lovely place to listen to birds roosting excitedly in the garden at sunset.

The lounge-restaurant is also appealing. Co-owned Kunpen Sakya, easily found directly west of the gompa, has bigger but less-atmospheric rooms. The same group includes another larger hotel and a comfortable year-round homestay. They can arrange a whole series of outdoor activities.

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